The Amazing History Of Siamese Fighting Fish

Author:

Peter Myles

These small tropical fish are placid when on their own, and suprisingly aggressive towards other male Bettas. They can live in the smallest of bowls. In the wild they have even been found living in water-filled buffalo hoofprints...

Betta Fish (e.g. Siamese Fighting Fish) are tropical native fish to the Southern parts of Asia and the countries of Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia.

Betta Fish thrive in the natural wilderness, and in places where there is small reedy like pools, slow flowing creeks and shallow ponds. Considered the most beautiful of all tropical fish, they get their name 'Siamese Fighting Fish' (e.g. Betta Fish) because of their aggressiveness towards other male Bettas.

They\'re also aggressive in nature too because they have to survive in smaller bodies of water, and therefore tend to fiercely protect their area (where they live) or they\'ll lose out on breeding with a female Betta (who shares the male Bettas pond, stream, etc.) to a more dominate male Betta fish.

Sometimes Bred For Fighting

People have been breeding Siamese Fighting Fish for MANY thousands of years. In places like Thailand for example... they even breed betta fish for fighting. The Bettas which are bred as ornamental types are usually MUCH prettier though, than the Bettas bred for fighting.

These Siamese Fighting Fish we love to call betta fish also have a very unique characteristic which actually makes them much different in some respects to other types of tropical fish.

HOW?

Because these special fish can breath both through their gills, and through a special organ called the 'labyrinthine' which allows the Betta fish to take in pure oxygen when there is a limited supply of oxygen found in its water environment.

Maintaining Healthy Betta Fish

Bettas are fresh water tropical fish which love shallow water, and thrive in warmer temperatures around the 30° mark. Nevertheless, if you live in a more temperate climate, then you\'ll need to add an aquarium heater to your tank. This is especially so if the temperature of the water tends to drop below the 18° mark.

The Betta fish can oftentimes survive in poorer quality water, but you should always endeavor to change the water frequently to ensure that your pet Betta is happy, healthy and active. These gorgeous long fin beauties really do need their water changed at least 'one to three' times a week. And if you decide to put your pet Betta in a small bowl then you may need to change the water every few days.

Bettas are prone to pick-up a number of common diseases like dropsy and fin rot which in most cases are more or less associated with the quality of water in which they live. In a home tank environment there are special medicines available such as 'Bettafix' which is excellent for aquarium fish like the tropical Betta Fish.

Aquarium Tank Space

Although not advised a Betta fish will live in small bowls and tanks. Many times Bettas are kept in small plastic jars and even smaller glass containers or a betta tank purchased from the local pet shop.

It\'s always best though to keep Bettas in separate containers unless you are thinking about breeding. Another thing to watch out for is trying to put different varieties of tropical fish in a single bowl or tank.

WHY?

Because long finned, redish colored tropical fish almost always pick-on Betta Fish. Tropical fish such as 'tiger barbs, serpae, and even tetras' which tend to attact the Bettas flowing fin.

Anyone can own a Betta Fish. They\'re an especially good animal to have as a first-time pet owner or somebody that has very little time or space in their lives for a regular size pet.

And Betta fish are also very low maintenance as well.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/the-amazing-history-of-siamese-fighting-fish-1067656.html

About the Author

Peter Myles is an expert in the care and breeding of betta fish as well as betta fish care and offers free tips and advice at his website www.bettafishguru.com

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?
by: Addison Ercanbrack



* Why does my aquarium stink?

When the mosses mix with the water, the water becomes dense and sticky. Mosses live through in the oxygen in the water. They excrete carbon dioxide that causes the water to become stinky.

* Why is my aquarium green?

The green colors that appear in your aquarium are mosses. They are water plants that serve as foods for the fishes. Sometimes the green pigment will mix with the water causing it to blur.

* How do I clean my aquarium?

When your aquarium already has noticeable mosses around it and already emits an unpleasant smell, it's time to clean your aquarium. Cleaning an aquarium is as easy as washing dishes in the sink. All you have to do is remove the fish in your aquarium first. Transfer them temporarily to a bowl or a pail with water. After transferring the fish into the bowl remove and discard the stinky water in your aquarium. Remove all other equipment in your aquarium including rocks and accessories.

Wipe your aquarium with a smooth surface sponge so that the glass will not be scratched. You may use other glass cleaning substances but be sure to rinse the glass thoroughly before putting the fish back in. The substances you have used may contaminate your pets and can damage their skin. If you use tap water to refill your tank, be sure to treat it first with a chorine neutralizer. Again, the chlorine in tap water can damage fish and frog's skin.

* What cleaning supplies do I need for my aquarium?

Cleaning your aquarium does not need complicated tools, supplies and processes. All you need are smooth-surface sponges, a small amount of glass cleaner and water. A small brush may also be used to clean your aquarium accessories. Soap may also be ideal to use instead of glass cleaner. Just be sure that whatever substance you use you clean thoroughly. As mentioned above, the cleaners may contaminate and damage your pet. So, be sure to rinse the aquarium well.

* What do I do with the fish when I clean my aquarium?

In cleaning your aquarium, you have to transfer your fish into a bowl with water that has been treated in advance with a chlorine neutralizer. Use a net to transfer fish to avoid accidents. Catch the fish and slowly transfer them into the bowl of treated water.

About The Author
Addison Ercanbrack is a regular contributor to aquarium and fish-related resources such as http://www.AquariumsTips.com.

Efficient Care Requirements For Aquarium Fish

Efficient Care Requirements For Aquarium Fish
by: Low Jeremy


You need not to purchase the most expensive kinds of fish just to set up the best aquarium. This can be luxurious already. What you need to know is the proper way of maintaining your aquarium to make it pleasing to the eyes at all times.

Besides all other aquarium supplies, the fish is the most important. It cannot be called an aquarium without the species that will swim into it. This can come in varying types depending on the aquarium you put up.

Aquarium fish can be purchased in extraordinary color patterns. It comes in red, white, green, purple and even blue. In most cases, the male fish has brighter color and longer fins than the female fish. Typically, the more vibrant is the better because it can add appeal inside the aquarium.

There is a specific lifespan for the fish. However, it can be changed through your maintenance. There are times that fish has longer lifespan but due to your negligence, it can be shorten to months instead of years. This will just be a waste of money so better to take note of this factor.

Below are some reminders for proficient care of your aquarium fish:

1. Have regular check for the unnecessary things that may fall into the aquarium.

Cleanliness is very essential for your maintenance. This will not concern the pleasing appeal of the aquarium alone but most particularly the health of the species residing in the habitat. You can use filtration supply on this matter. Cleaning habit can be done weekly or you can do it gradually if you see some falling food remains at the top of the aquarium.

2. Beware from buying aggressive species.

Peaceful types of fish are more advisable because aggressive specie can affect the entire habitat. One can kill the other. Prevent this scenario to happen because you can probably end up with your aquarium to nothing.

3. Do not overfeed the aquarium fish.

Some fish are only required to be fed once a day although others are for twice. Overfeeding is not helpful nor will it make your fish grow larger instantly. Many cases have shown that it can cause death to your fish.

4. When changing the water, add product that will remove chlorine in the water.

Chlorine can be toxicant for your fish. You can purchase products from pet stores in order to eliminate the amount of chlorine in the water.

If you care for your fish, then better follow the advice that will cater your aquarium fish needs.

About The Author
This content is provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more information on aquariums, how to maintain, the basics of owning one, please visit http://aquarium.articlekeep.com

Koi Carp Ponds – Essential Guide to Getting Started Part 2

Koi Carp Ponds – Essential Guide to Getting Started Part 2
by: Michael C. Harris


A great way to begin planning for Koi carp ponds is to view how others of have successfully designed and built their ponds. Searching online is the fastest and easiest way to get started, as there is an endless resource of photos and information to be found there. Seeing how others have done things can spark wide imagination and creative ideas into how you would like your Koi pond to look, and the potential of how it could enhance the overall impression of your garden landscape. Decorations of plans, stones, statues, wooden ornaments and fixtures can have a dramatic and pleasant impact on the dynamics of your Koi garden. However, in regard to including any plants in your pond, be sure to take into consideration that Koi will eat certain plants as well as dig into the soil, which could lead to a potential messing of the pond water thus leading to more frequent cleaning and maintenance. There are plants that are suited well for Koi carp ponds, and covering the plant soil with stones or large gravel can alleviate much of this potential problem. Another great way to include plants in your pond development and keep them safe from your Koi is to put them in a floating island pond planter. Floating islands are great for decorating your Koi pond with beautiful plant life while at the same time providing needed shade and protection from predators for your Koi fish. Again, professional advice is golden.

When seeking the help of an expert, it is wise to do your research first. Get an understanding of the specific questions you should be asking as well as a general sense of the answers you should be getting. Talk to several specialists as apposed to only one or two. Visit your local pet stores to gain knowledge on Koi keeping, Koi supplies and pond equipment, along with construction and maintenance of Koi carp ponds. Get yourself familiar with why you need a Koi pond filter, a Koi pond pump and maybe an aerating device, and how these vital necessities work together to provide a natural, stable Koi fish environment while supplying healthy clean water for your Koi to live and thrive. Develop an awareness of the consistent routine work of Koi keeping and pond maintenance, including water pH level testing, pond and filter cleaning, Koi feeding and inspection of any parasites or diseases, along with any general garden maintenance such as weeding and algae removal.

Protection from predators is a factor to take into consideration at the planning stage of Koi carp ponds. Koi supplies such as overhangs or pond net covers could prove invaluable in keeping your Koi fish safe from other hungry animals. Also, ensuring that the pond water has enough depth for the Koi to submerge out of sight from predators, as well as shading themselves from direct sunlight when needed, is a necessary element in the planning of your Koi pond.

Budgeting for the costs of running and maintaining your pond should be well thought out before hand. Shop around by researching online, as well as visiting your local pet stores, for prices on all things necessary and get a clear idea of what Koi carp ponds entail in regards to buying Koi fish, Koi food, pond cleaning supplies, water testing and treatment supplies, pond filter media, the potential energy costs of running pond filters, pond pumps, fountains and waterfalls, along with the construction materials and tools required to do the job properly. Making a concise list sorted into categories with sub totals of each will allow you to develop a clearer idea of potential monthly and yearly running costs.


About The Author
Get your FREE 10 day Koi Carp Fish Care mini course today at http://www.koifishschool.com Michael C. Harris is a Koi specialist. For more great tips on Black Koi, Koi care, breeding and Koi pond construction and maintenance, visit http://www.koifishschool.com today.

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?

Aquarium Questions - Cleaning Your Aquarium?
by: Addison Ercanbrack


* Why does my aquarium stink?

When the mosses mix with the water, the water becomes dense and sticky. Mosses live through in the oxygen in the water. They excrete carbon dioxide that causes the water to become stinky.

* Why is my aquarium green?

The green colors that appear in your aquarium are mosses. They are water plants that serve as foods for the fishes. Sometimes the green pigment will mix with the water causing it to blur.

* How do I clean my aquarium?

When your aquarium already has noticeable mosses around it and already emits an unpleasant smell, it's time to clean your aquarium. Cleaning an aquarium is as easy as washing dishes in the sink. All you have to do is remove the fish in your aquarium first. Transfer them temporarily to a bowl or a pail with water. After transferring the fish into the bowl remove and discard the stinky water in your aquarium. Remove all other equipment in your aquarium including rocks and accessories.

Wipe your aquarium with a smooth surface sponge so that the glass will not be scratched. You may use other glass cleaning substances but be sure to rinse the glass thoroughly before putting the fish back in. The substances you have used may contaminate your pets and can damage their skin. If you use tap water to refill your tank, be sure to treat it first with a chorine neutralizer. Again, the chlorine in tap water can damage fish and frog's skin.

* What cleaning supplies do I need for my aquarium?

Cleaning your aquarium does not need complicated tools, supplies and processes. All you need are smooth-surface sponges, a small amount of glass cleaner and water. A small brush may also be used to clean your aquarium accessories. Soap may also be ideal to use instead of glass cleaner. Just be sure that whatever substance you use you clean thoroughly. As mentioned above, the cleaners may contaminate and damage your pet. So, be sure to rinse the aquarium well.

* What do I do with the fish when I clean my aquarium?

In cleaning your aquarium, you have to transfer your fish into a bowl with water that has been treated in advance with a chlorine neutralizer. Use a net to transfer fish to avoid accidents. Catch the fish and slowly transfer them into the bowl of treated water.

About The Author
Addison Ercanbrack is a regular contributor to aquarium and fish-related resources such as http://www.AquariumsTips.com.

10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction

10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction
by: Laurentiu Craciunas


Betta splendens is one of the most wanted fish in everyone's aquarium. Breeding Bettas is not hard, though you might face problems at spawning them. They are oviparous fish, the male builds a nest in which the eggs/fry are kept for few days under the strict care of the Betta male. If you follow the next advices, you have big chances to get nice results of your Betta fish spawning.

1. Reproduction tank equipment: volume of 15-20 liters, a heater, a thermometer and air pomp connected to an air rock which will spread small bubbles. You need small bubbles because the fry are very sensitive to water movements and you don't want them to suffer.

2. The aquarium water must have a temperature of 28-29° C, a higher temperature will hurry the eggs hatching and the fry won't be fully developed. Keep the temperature constant using the heater and check it with the thermometer to make sure it is at the right level.

3. The water depth mustn't excel 10-15 cm because the Betta eggs are denser than water and they fall down from the nest. The male picks them up in its mouth and brings them back in the bubble nest, but a water column over 15 cm will tire it after few repetitions.

4. Cover the reproduction aquarium with a lid in order to keep the same temperature for the air inside the aquarium. The fry develop their labyrinth after about 30 days and they are very sensitive to temperature changes. The lid also protects against air flow which could ruin the bubble nest.

5. Select a compatible pair of Bettas. At first attempts you'll only want to get some fry and you won't be interested in colors/fins, but after some successful spawns you'll be more pretentious. So you'll chose same colored Bettas or even more, you'll look for developing some nice fins (double tails, crown tails, half moons, etc) but this is another discussion...

6. Introduce the male in the evening and only next morning introduce the female, considering that the male has already built the bubble nest. During the night keep the female in a jar near the aquarium and assure some light in order to make eye contact between the male and female; this will stimulate the bubble nest building.

7. The next day, after introducing the female, the Betta male will brutally chase her. That's why you have to put some plants in the corners of the aquarium in order to assure hiding places for the female. Also make sure you add some floating plants in order to help the bubble nest building.

8. After the first successful egg evacuation, the male (sometimes the female too) will take them (in the mouth) from the bottom of the aquarium and bring up in the bubble nest. You don't have to panic because this is a natural thing, so don't take the fish out thinking they eat their eggs ;)

9. A good pair of Bettas can spawn up to 400-500 eggs, after which the female has to be taken out from the aquarium because the male will brutalize her in order to protect the nest. Put the female, for a few hours, in a jar with water where you added some metilen blue in order to prevent eventually infections caused by the wounds.

10. After about 48 hours the fry will hatch and the Betta male will assure they stay together in the bubble nest. After another 2-3 days the fry will swim free. Now it's time to take out the male and start feeding them with Paramecium and/or Artemia salina (Baby Brine Shrimp).

This is it ;) 10 tips for a successful Betta splendens reproduction. You can find advanced information on specialized websites, books, etc, but following this article should familiarize you with the Betta splendens reproduction needs.

About The Author

Laurentiu Craciunas has been breeding Betta splendens for over 5-6 years now and he wants to share his experience with others too. You can read more aquaria related articles on his website: http://www.tropical-aquariums.com.

Japanese Koi Pond/Water Garden

Japanese Koi Pond/Water Garden
by: RC Moore


There are a lot of people that will tell you not to put Japanese Koi and plants together. Pet stores and internet articles suggest that koi will destroy any plants you put in your pond. I have been keeping Japanese Koi in my water gardens for six years without any Koi destroying any of the plants. The plants provide shade and shelter for the koi when spooked, and add to the water clarity.

Japanese Koi are by far the most beautiful and desirable fish you can keep in an outdoor water garden. In Japan, breeding koi has occupied a position between hobby and art form for more than two centuries. To keep Japanese Koi in a water garden you have to understand that they are bottom feeders who are most at home rooting around, in and among the rubble found on the bottom of their natural environment. As a matter of fact, the purpose of the famous whiskers is to help them root around more efficiently in the rocks/ rubble. Putting a layer a gravel in your pond will give the koi something to root in and will also add to the natural biological environment. Plants will also benefit from being directly in the gravel. I always remove plants from their pots, and rinse the roots before planting in a bed of gravel, which adds to the natural beauty of the water garden.

It is true that koi eat plants. It is also true that in the warm summer months they are none stop foragers. I describe them as eating machines. That is why it is important to keep plants they can eat without destroying. My two favorite are watercress and marsh betony planted in a shallow high water flow area. Trust me, you will need the koi to help you keep these invasive plants in check and may still have to thin late in the season. These plants are excellent filters which will help keep the water crystal clear and the koi happy.

Floating water hyacinth can result in the koi eating the roots. I usually plant in the shallow stream just below the waterfall. Their roots bury deep in the gravel to provide excellent filtration. They tend to grow taller and bloom less. Mine have grown 3 foot tall and extend 12 feet down the stream and seem to benefit from the splashing of the waterfall. This is another plant that will have to be pulled in the fall. Pickerel Rush is another plant that enjoys the splashing from a waterfall. I use them to hide the liner below the waterfall and they have bloomed constantly all season. More info at koipondfever.com

About The Author
RC Moore, content writer for http://koipondfever.com.

Koi Food Secrets to Raising Quality Koi

Koi Food Secrets to Raising Quality Koi
by: RC Moore


Japanese koi are the most colorful and magnificent fish that you can keep in any fresh water environment. The different color and pattern variations associated with the different koi varieties can be like an artist painting on each fish. Even the white of the Platinum Ogon koi can be breathtaking. Especially for a fish that can grow to 30 inches and live to 50 years in the right environment. From the Asagi to the Utsuri, there are many factors involved in raising these magnificent koi. Many koi keepers have done all the right things in creating a koi pond large enough, with plenty of water movement and filtration to keep and grow large koi. They may buy quality Japanese koi that started out looking great, but as time goes by may loose koi to disease or have the colors seem to wash out. Many koi keepers overlook the importance of using a premium koi food that meets all the nutritional needs of their koi. It's like humans eating a diet of junk food and expecting to be trim and healthy and live a long life.

Bentonite Clay

The Japanese have spent many years developing the different breeds by careful selection and also developing their own formulas of food for the best growth, color, and health. The best koi in the world are grown in mud ponds in the fertile valleys of Niigata in Japan. The reason for this is because of the minerals present in the clay of these mud ponds that ad to the color and health of the koi. Dainichi is the only koi food that incorporates bentonite clay in their koi foods. Bentonite clay contains over 60 minerals and trace elements that aid in enhancing digestion and growth, as well as neutralizing metabolic toxins. Koi that have a poor diet will show up in the whites looking dingy, especially in the face where it will look more yellow than in the rest of the koi. You can also add bentonite clay directly to the pond water to help stabilize the water ph. Koi will ingest significant quantities of silt and other indigestible detritus from their natural environment which will act to bulk out the diet. Having gravel in the bottom of your pond gives a place for this silt and detritus to build up without having the turbid water that you would in a mud pond. It will also harbor worms and small crustaceans that the koi will feed on. Water lilies can be taken out of the pots and planted directly in the gravel adding to the ecosystem of the pond.

High Protein

The metabolism of koi reaches a peak at water temperatures of 75° F. During this time it is essential that they receive a high protein diet to aid in growth and color. They also need to be fed at least twice a day, three times is better. Koi do not have stomachs, and when their metabolism is high they forage constantly. Fish meal and krill for color are protein ingredients to look for in a high quality koi food.

Koi Eat Plants

There are a lot of people that will tell you not to put Japanese koi and plants together. Pet stores and internet articles suggest that koi will destroy any plants you put in your pond. Koi are omnivorous and need vegetable matter in their diet. A high quality koi food will contain spirulina algae which also enhances color. Since koi forage constantly it is good to grow a plant in your pond that will keep up with the appetite of the koi. Watercress is an excellent plant food source for koi. Watercress contains significant amounts of iron, calcium and folic acid, in addition to vitamins A and C, and koi love it. It is best to plant on a shallow ledge with rocks around it to keep the koi from pulling up the roots. You can buy it in the produce section of your grocery store. Just stick it in some shallow water in gravel and it will grow.

Different Foods for the Seasons

During the cooler seasons of spring and fall it is best to feed a food that is higher in vegetable matter, lower in protein, and easy to digest. In the summer months, when the water temperature is above 70° F switch to a higher protein formula. When the water temperature is above 70° F it takes about 16 hours for the food to move completely through a koi digestive tract. At 50° F it can take up to 60 hours and food intake is much less. Only feed the koi as much as they will eat within a few minutes. It is much better to feed 3 times a day in the summer months. At 50° - 55° feed 2 - 3 times a week. When the water temperature goes below 50° F do not feed the koi at all. If the food is not digested due to the low metabolism it can rot in the gut of the koi and cause death.

Cost Versus Quality

If you consider the cost of a high quality food versus the "cheap" foods, there is not that much difference. Keeping healthy koi using a high quality food means fewer outbreaks of disease and lower mortality rates. You are not spending money replacing koi or treating for disease with medications due to poor health because of a poor diet. You also have to go by weight and not just the physical size of the bag. Cheaper foods tend to be more airy while the premium foods tend to be more dense, so it looks like you are getting more food than you actually are with the cheap food. Many times, if compared by weight, the price is pretty close. In the long run it may actually be cheaper to buy the premium food. You will definitely notice the difference in the color, growth, and overall health of the koi over just a short time.


About The Author
RC Moore, Content writer for KoiPondFever.com

The author invites you to visit:
http://www.koipondfever.com



Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_2004.shtml

Aquarium Supplies Part 2 - My First Experience With Goldfish

Aquarium Supplies Part 2 - My First Experience With Goldfish
by: Jonathan Wangsa

If you are seriously considering keeping fish as pets or are just starting out, I would like to stress again the importance of having some basic knowledge about aquariums and fish keeping in order to enjoy the hobby for a significant length of time and to avoid frustrations and disappointments.

In the first article I illustrated this by sharing my own childhood experience with bettas, and now I shall share my experience with goldfish.

While I still had my bettas I also wanted to keep some goldfish since I also found them attractive and interesting. My mom was reluctant to buy me some since I already had the bettas but she finally gave in and bought me a pair of "telescope" goldfish.

At the time I didn't have a real aquarium yet so we put the goldfish in a large jar (about 1 gallon). One of our neighbors told us that goldfish wouldn't tolerate chlorine and therefore, we should not use tap water. They happened to have a well and offered to let us use the water for my goldfish.

I soon noticed that the fish were constantly gasping for air at the surface. They also refused to eat. After a couple of days the water started to become cloudy, so I changed it totally. However, the fish still refused to eat and continued to gasp for air. Not long after that they became lethargic and eventually died.

My mom said probably "telescope" goldfish just weren't hardy enough and not easy to keep. However, I had not given up on goldfish yet, so I asked if I could try to keep other kinds and hopefully would have better luck. My parents eventually consented but my dad suggested that I get a real aquarium instead of putting the fish in a jar. You can imagine how elated I was that finally I was going to have a real aquarium.

So we went out and bought a 10 gallon aquarium and a few goldfish at the same time. I believe we bought 4 fish: a couple of medium sized "comets" and a pair of "pearl scales." We didn't buy them at a store, though. It was more like a wholesale type of place where there were plenty of different sellers selling their aquariums and fish. Again, at the time neither my mom nor I knew much about fish keeping. So we didn't buy any supplies for the aquarium. Just the tank and fish. That was it!

When we got home I filled up the aquarium with untreated tap water and immediately put the fish in. I was so excited to see the goldfish swim around in the tank, but that didn't last long. In a few hours the fish were no longer lively. They sort of stayed at the bottom and didn't move very much.

When my dad saw them he said they probably lacked oxygen and suggested that we go out and buy an air pump to aerate the tank. I had only seen aerated aquariums in places like public aquariums and fancy restaurants and thought that an air pump had to be very expensive, but my dad said it would be OK.

So my mom and I went to a fish store to look for an air pump. Besides the pump we also needed something to hook the plastic tube on to and hold it in place. We chose to get a frog ornament for that purpose (the air would come out of the frog's mouth). All the stuff didn't really cost too much.

As soon as we got home we hooked everything up and air started flowing into the aquarium. Like magic, within a couple of minutes the fish started to "wake up" and finally became lively again. My dad said, "I told you so!"

The air pump was about the only supply we bought for the aquarium. Having beautiful and lively goldfish in my very own aquarium was good enough for me. I loved them so much that I also fed them too much. I was happy to watch them eat. As you can imagine though, the water got dirty very quickly that I had to change it every day.

One day a friend of ours told us that we shouldn't be changing the water daily since it wouldn't be good for the fish. Also, in the mean time I had read somewhere that if you wanted to use tap water you should set it aside for a few days to get rid of the chlorine. Therefore, I set aside a bucket of water and changed 3/4 of the water about every 3 days.

I was able to enjoy the goldfish for a few months before one of them got sick and died and the others followed soon after. I was extremely sad and because of that my dad told me I couldn't buy any more fish. So, after all my fish died my hobby came to a sad end. Well, at least for a while.

Again, there is a take-home lesson here: if you're serious about having your own aquarium, there's some basic knowledge you need to possess before you even buy the aquarium and fish. You don't have to know everything there is to know about the hobby, but at least for the sake of the fish, you should understand a few things (such as how many fish you can have in a tank, how much to feed them, what kinds of aquarium supplies to have, and what kinds of maintenance you need to perform, just to name a few) that are crucial to their well being.

If you're an expert you most likely picked up on the things I did wrong in the story I shared above. If you're a beginner or just thinking about getting started with this hobby, I invite you to visit my web site (see below) to learn more.

About The Author

Jonathan Wangsa is the webmaster of http://www.all-about-aquarium-supplies.com. There you can find resources and information about aquarium supplies and other aquarium related topics. Whether you're an expert or a newbie, you can also share your own experiences. Get a Free Special Report when you sign up for a Free Monthly Newsletter.

Silver-tipped (Hasemania nana) - ornamental fish

Silver-tipped

Silver-tipped (Hasemania nana) comes from Venezuela and Guyana. These fish are very fond of herbivore and feeds from vegetables (water lettuce). Optimum temperature to be able to multiply approximately 25-27 ° C. Water is suitable for life should have a pH of about 6,5-7,0 and violence around 8-10 ° dH.




The size of silver-tipped body can reach a maximum of 9 cm. Silvery body with small scales. In addition, there are black spots behind the gill cover and the base of the tail.

These fish are somewhat aggressive, often biting the other fish, especially for smaller fish. Therefore it is not suitable fish kept with other fish. Containers for spawning a pool or tub with a density of about 100 ekor/m2 For mass spawning, the male and female ratio 1: 4. As a place to attach their eggs, it takes the form of the substrate or nest of water plants.

Eggs are attached to the substrate will hatch within 24 hours. The larvae will swim about 2-3 days after hatching.
Replacement of water on the maintenance of the larvae after the larvae began to swim. The amount of water as much as half the volume change of water. Replacement of this water should be routinely done every two days. Feed the first larvae of infusoria. Later, lice can be replaced pakannya water after the seed and adult sizes.


Growth of these fish so quickly that spacing should be more frequent. This needs to be done to maintain the nature of aggression against a smaller fish. When maintenance is done well, at the age of 1.5 months to sell the size is reached, which is about 2.2 cm.

source: Darti S.L and Iwan D. PenebarSwadaya, 2006

Discus Fish Care: The Importance of the Water

Discus Fish Care: The Importance of the Water
by: Michael Hickmon


When it comes to discus fish care, it can be a quite complicated task to make sure that you fish are happy and healthy and getting everything that they need, discus fish are not really recommended for beginner aquarists but if you would like to give it a try, then there are some important factors that you should consider when it comes to discus fish care, and one of the most important factors in the health of a discus fish is the water.

Discus fish come from the Amazon River and so they are used to warmer and more acidic water types. The ideal temperature for a discus water tank should be around 26-31 C for adult fish and for baby discus and young discus fish, the ideal temperature of the water should be kept at 31 C. it is important for the water to be soft and acidic with a pH lever of between 5.5 and 6.5, and this is an ideal pH level for wild caught discus fish to maintain their health.

Many aquarists think that the water in a discus fish tank should be changed often (this is the same with any fish tank) but if you maintain a well planted tank that includes adequate filtration, lighting and bottom dwelling fish to clean up the mess that discus leave behind after eating, then this should keep the tank a lot cleaner and the water clearer for longer and you can simply top up the tank every other day with RO water. When it comes to the plants and other fish that you decide to keep in the water with your discus fish, you should choose fish and plants to compliment the discus so that they are able to thrive and do well.

When it comes to captive discus fish which have been bred, then it is possible for them to adapt to harder water which makes discus fish care that little bit easier. Captive discus can survive in water with a pH balance of up to 6.8 (this is not suitable if you are attempting to breed discus however, soft and acidic water is best for breeding) when the pH balance is low then it protects the discus fish from the poison of toxins which allows the discus to live in conditions that are almost the same as the water conditions that they were evolved from.

It is important to note that a pH level which drops below 5 can inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria which can exist in the filter that you provide. So when it comes to discus fish care you must remember that the temperature and the pH balance of the water is very important any drop or change in the pH can cause the discus to get sick and can even cause them to die, which is why that it is not considered acceptable for inexperienced fish owners to look after discus fish, however we all must learn some where and if you are really interested in owning your own discus aquarium, then be sure to read up on all of the information that is available to you on discus fish care.


About The Author
The author has created a review site that provides you with the most In-Depth and Complete analysis of the best discus fish care guide on the planet, called Discus Fish Secrets.



Visit the author's web site at:
http://pet-whisperer.com

Article Source:
http://www.articlecity.com/articles/pets_and_animals/article_1903.shtml

Koi Carp and Breeding for Profit

Koi Carp and Breeding for Profit
by: Tim Warrington



Koi are amazing animals. They have evolved originally from common carp and were originally thought of as throw backs. The koi world has grown massively and is continuing to grow at an unprecedented rate. Years ago if you heard of someone spending £1000 on a fish you may have fell over, in this day and age this is commonplace.

Quick sum for you to get you interested.

Each kilogram of female koi will produce approximately 200000 eggs if you hatch out 100000 eggs and grow the koi to 2-3" which takes approximately 120 days. You will end up with 100000 fish a value of 60p each trade. The cost of arriving at this point is approximately 10p per fish, you now have a profit of 50p per fish = £50000. I hear you ask "why doesn’t everyone do it" Firstly is knowledge, you do need a good degree of knowledge to do this. Secondly is holding capacity you will need a large pool or recirculation system to achieve this. Thirdly, it is a risky business, one thing goes wrong with the system and you loose your entire batch of fish.

So how do you start?

This is a long process and I will post these in 10 parts of ezine.

Part one.

Easy Spawning

When spring is in the air water temperature is at about 15-20 degrees you will notice your fish may go off there food. You may also notice three fish swimming like an arrow around the pool. This is two male fish and the female. The male in front will be looking for a place to spawn. This is the time you put in you brushes. The brushes are like a toilet brush but much softer. These brushes must be placed in the shallow water approx 6-10" deep.

When the fish are ready they will start to thrash over the brushes this normally happens in early morning.

After approximately one hour you will see the brushes are covered with eggs very tiny eggs.

The eggs need to be moved to a separate tank or old bath or the parents will eat them. It is best to treat the eggs with malachite to prevent fungus a quick dip is fine as you don’t want to starve the eggs of oxygen.

The bath or tank must be setup to have running water the flow needs to be 5 liters per minute (very low) you can pump this directly from you pond if you wish. When the water arrives at the tank use an old bed sheet to filter the water. The water needs to be as clean as possible or the tiny little particles will stick in the baby koi gills causing slow growth and death.

The eggs will take approx 3-4days to hatch, then the real fun begins

Next article 18/10/06

About The Author
My name is Tim Warrington i own a company called http://www.aquatico.co.uk , I have been successfully setting up and building koi farms for over 8 years. I built my last fish farm in the desert for food fish, I have bred all sorts of koi/fish and sold them for massive profit, I am here to share this with you in a 10 part series.

How to Choose Water Garden Plants

How to Choose Water Garden Plants
by: Brett Fogle


So the water garden bug has bitten. You’ve dug and leveled and sweated and said words you hope that no one else has heard. Now it’s time for the fun part – picking out your water garden plants!

Plant varieties within these four categories are what you need to eyeball: deep-water, marginals, oxygenators, and floaters. (If you think these words are big words, just be happy we’re not talking about medicine.)

After you’ve diligently planted your new plants in plastic tubs, pans, or clay pots, packing the fertilizer- and chemical-free soil down tightly, load the container down with pea gravel to keep the soil from floating away. (Don’t ask why this works, but it does.) Plunk your plant into the water at the appropriate depth (You’ll read about that in just a minute) and you’re on ready to go!

Plant-dunking should be generally be done during the growing season. For new ponds, wait four or five weeks for the water plants to do their thing before you add your fish. If you just can’t hold your horses, or your fish, for that long, you can jump the gun a couple of weeks, but the idea is to let the plants first get established.

When picking your plants, you’ll no doubt be wowed by water lilies of the tropical persuasion. These aquatic wonders are popular compared to their hardier cousins with knock-out fragrance, big blooms day or night – depending on the variety – and a habit of blooming their little hearts out nearly every day during the growing season. They love their warmth, though, so unless you live in a year-round, warm-weather climate, be prepared to hasten them into a greenhouse or at least muster up some funds to buy them some “grow” lights to tough it out through the winter.

They will definitely bite the dust at freezing temperatures, but give them night-time temps of at least 65F and daytime temps of 75F or warmer, and your love affair with tropicals will only grow that much more torrid.

Hardy water lilies, while not the showboaters that tropicals are, are . . . well, hardier. Their big advantage is that they can stay in the water year ‘round unless it freezes so deeply the rootstock is affected. And being the tough guys they are, you can plant these puppies deeper than the tropicals, some living it up in depths of 8 to 10 feet.

Both hardy and tropical water lilies are real sun worshippers. At least 5 to 10 hours a day is what it takes, along with regular fertilization, to keep these plant pals happy.

Everybody and their brother with a water garden wants a lotus plant. (Sisters, too, no doubt.) These water-lily relatives come in hardy and not-so-hardy strains, so make sure you know what you’re buying. Much bigger than water lilies, lotus have huge, famously splendid blooms that not only will knock your socks off, but make you forget you have feet altogether. Their leaves and seed pods are so breathtaking, they’re a favorite in costly cut-flower arrangements. Big, bold, and beautiful, with water-depth needs of 2-3 feet, these shouters are really better off in big ponds that get plenty of sun.

Marginals (sometimes called “bog” plants by those less high-falutin’) are grass-like plants that strut their stuff in shallow areas no deeper than 6” that border the water garden. They also do well in mud. Cattail, bamboo, rush, papyrus, and many other plants fall into the family of marginals and grow best with a minimum of at least three hours of sun.

Some plants are there but not seen, working stoically under water and without fanfare to fight algae, oxygenate the water, and provide food for fish. (In lieu of these plants, if your pond is small, you can fake it fairly adequately with an aquarium pump.) Easy on the wallet, varieties of these plants can be bought in bunches and like their soil sandy and/or gravelly. Like hardy water lilies, they, too, will warrior it through the winter.

Water hyacinths have become a recent rage, especially for the lazy among us. No soil is required for these beauties. Toss them in the water and they’re “planted.” A water hyacinth ain’t just another pretty face, though; these plants do their part in the war against algae and blanket weeds by keeping sunlight scarce on the water’s surface. But one note of caution: This plant may take over the world if allowed. It’s invasive as all get out, so keep it under control or you (and your neighbors) may wish you’d never laid eyes on it.

A water garden isn't a garden without plants. Take your time, know your climate, and choose wisely. Your rewards will be great in return.

To read the full article, click here:
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Newsletters/July2004/pond-plant-selection.shtml

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.
brett@macarthurwatergardens.com

FISH CULTIVATION MANFISH

FISH CULTIVATION MANFISH

Origin, morphology and Manfis Fish Habit
Manfish or also known by the term 'Angel fish' comes from the waters of the Amazon, South America. Manfish (Pterophyllum scalare) belonging to the family Cichlidae, have morphological traits and habits as follows:
- Having the color and type of the variable
- Flat body shape, with a body like an arrow
- Belly fins and flippers stretched back to the tail width, so that appears as a dark arc transparent
- In the chest there are two long fins that hang down to the tail.
- Maintain and protect their offspring.
- As a omnivorus
- Lncluded easy to accept various types of foods in various forms and sources of


Some types of fish Manfish known and has been developed in Indonesia among others are: Diamond (Diamond), Imperial, Marble and Black-White.

Diamond (Diamonds), shiny silver-gray to green. At the top of the head is yellow to dark brown that along to the back. Manfish Imperial has a silver base color, but her body decorated with four black vertical lines / dark brown. Marble Manfish have mixed colors of black and white vertical lines forming. While manfish Black-White has a black color decorate the back half of his body, and white colors adorn the front half including the head.

Parent Management
Manfish fish can be a parent after age 7 months to reach the length ± 7.5 cm. To achieve optimal results, the parent must be properly managed for example by feeding good as mosquito larvae, Tubifex worms, or Chironomous. Also because the parent fish is very sensitive to manfish disease, the treatment should be given periodic drug commonly used drugs such as Oxytetracycline and salt.

Before married, the mother maintained manfish mass (male and female) in the first 1 large aquarium (size 100x60x60 cm3). After the mature egg, the parent manfish will pair up and separate from other fish. Parent who was able to pair it and dipijahkan taken place.

Moreover, it can be done, namely the parent manfish pair directly after learning of male and female parent. Characterized by male parental body size larger than the female parent. Parent male head looks a bit large part of the mouth to the convex dorsal fins, and more slender body shape than the female fish. While the mother is characterized by the size of the smaller body and form a smaller head with part of a larger belly / fat and looks slightly bulging.



Spawning Technique

Spawning conducted in an aquarium measuring 60x50x40 cm3 with water level ± 30 cm. Into the aeration tank is provided for the supply of oxygen.
Manfish fish eggs would stick to a smooth substrate, such as pieces of PVC pipe that had been prepared / are placed in the aquarium spawning. Because the fish tend to like the atmosphere manfish dark and quiet, so the aquarium can be attached wall paper or dark colored plastic.

Parent manfish will multiply at night. Mother put her eggs on the substrate and followed by the male fish sperm sprayed on all the eggs, so that the eggs are fertilized. The number of eggs produced per parent ranged between 500-1000 eggs. During the breeding period, the parent still be in the form of feed Tubifex worms, Chironomous or Daphnia.


The eggs hatch and larvae Maintenance

Eggs are attached to the substrate, then transferred to the aquarium hatching eggs (measuring 60x50x40 cm3) for hatched. At hatching medium water should be added to anti-fungal drugs, among others Methyline Blue with a dose of 1 ppm. To maintain stable temperature, then into the egg incubation medium used water heater (water heater) is installed at 27-28oC temperature.

Manfish eggs will hatch after 2-3 days, with the degree of hatching eggs ranged 70-90%. Next paralon the attachment is removed and egg-larval treatment until the age ± 2 weeks.

The feed is provided for the maintenance of the larval form of natural feed in accordance with the larval mouth opening and has a high protein content, among others nauplii Artemia sp. The feed was given 2 times a day (morning and afternoon) until the larvae ± 10 days old and continued with the provision of Tubifex worms.
Pendederan and Enlargement

After age ± 2 weeks, the seed spacing can be done to then do pendederan until one month-old fish.

The next step is to harvest the seeds to move into the tub / container enlargement. In this case can be used like a fiber-cement or the like, depending on the available container. During the rearing period, try to ensure a flow of water into the container, although slightly enlarged. Solid fish stocking for enlargement manfish range 100 ekor/m2. Given in the form of feed Tubifex worms or pellets to seed ± 2 months old. The size ranges are usually achieved by 3 to 5 cm. If feed and water quality support, Survival in the enlargement can reach 70-90%. The next seed can be raised again manfish until they reach the size of the parent or prospective parent with a solid smaller stocking.


Diseases and handling

Fish known manfish sensitive enough to attack the disease, it is necessary for good management to maintain the water quality and quantity of feed given. Some common types of parasites that attack the seed / stem Manfish include: Trichodina sp., Chillodonella sp. and Epystilys sp. While that infects bacteria is Aeromonas hydrophilla.

Several types of drugs that can be used to overcome the disease parasitek include: Formalin 25%, NaCl 500 ppm. As for bacterial diseases can be used Oxytetrachycline 5 to 10 ppm by 24 hours of soaking.

Aquarium Plants: One Of The Best Ornaments In An Aquarium

Aquarium Plants: One Of The Best Ornaments In An Aquarium
by: Low Jeremy


Everybody understands the reason why most plants can be seen in many aquariums. Healthy plants and their lush are beautiful to look at when they are in an aquarium. They also create a natural setting in the aquarium.

Most of the fishes feel secure, less stressed and safe whenever they have plants to hide in. Some species of fish do not survive in an aquarium without any plants.

Aquarium plants will not only give the fishes a helpful shelter and make your aquarium look attractive but they can maintain the quality of the water as well. Plants and fish both exist on the wild and they will surely match well in your aquarium.

The wastes discharged by the fish contain compounds that are useful for the plant’s nutrition. Therefore, the organic wastes can be contained in the plants instead of seeing them float in the water. The plants must be pruned regularly and the dead parts must be eliminated from the aquarium ASAP.

Not only that, the aquarium plants will also provide a shelter to many micro organisms which are useful for the ecology and environment of the aquarium. In addition, plants have also the capacity to inhabit the growth of ugly algae since algae and plants compete for similar nutrients.

Most species of fish will never reproduce in an aquarium without plants. This is because some species need plants for them to feel secured enough to reproduce, while other species need the leaves of the plants to place their eggs in. An abundantly planted aquarium will also enhance the survival growth of the fry especially if you want to increase the number of fry in a similar aquarium like with the adult fish.

However, we all know that plants rely too much to light and photosynthesis. An aquarium with no plants will only need little. But if you are planning to have an abundant number of plants in your aquarium, you will be required to put new lights. A fluorescent light will be better to your planted aquarium, make sure that they are made especially for aquariums.

If you are a beginner, the plant species that will be suitable for you are the Java Moss and the Java Fern. These are strong plants that can survive in water hardiness and pH values. They can even be placed in a brackish aquarium like the Molly aquarium.

Aquarium plants are very important to the survival of most fishes in the aquarium. It does not matter what aquarium plant you choose, the important thing is you know how to maintain your aquarium as naturally as the fishes and plants habitat.

About The Author

This content is provided by Low Jeremy. It may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more information on aquariums, how to maintain, the basics of owning one, please visit http://aquarium.articlekeep.com.

What You Should Know Before You Buy A Glass Aquarium

What You Should Know Before You Buy A Glass Aquarium
by: Jim F. Johnson



Buying your first aquarium is an exciting adventure. But should you select a glass aquarium or an acrylic one? Here are some tips on glass aquariums that may help you to make up your mind.

There are two main features that determine the quality of a glass fish tank - the kind of sealant that was used and the type and thickness of the glass. But, in addition, there are two kinds of glass aquariums. Some tanks are built to house water based creatures such as fish. And those that are meant to hold non-water based entities such as plants, turtles, lizards, and so on. If your intent is to house fish in your aquarium, you need to be sure that your aquarium of interest had it's sides bonded with sealant especially meant to hold water. If not, you could find that your fish tank is subject to leaks.

The typical glass aquarium is made of one of two types of glass - plate glass or tempered glass. Plate glass is a very heavy glass, it's over two times the weight of plexiglass (or acrylic) which is used in many fish tanks. Contrary to plexiglass, however, plate glass is extremely scratch resistant. It's also resistant to stains. Tempered glass is a bit less smooth than plate glass. Each type of glass breaks different also. When plate glass breaks, it tends to break into large pieces. When tempered glass breaks, however, it shatters into a lot of pieces. Practically, what this means is that if your plate glass aquarium breaks, you'll only have a crack or hole at the point of the break, and your fish will probably still be safe. Conversely, if your tempered glass aquarium breaks, it is likely that the entire aquarium side will be shattered and you'll lose all your fish.

Glass aquariums are not as good at retaining heat as acrylic tanks. So, dependent on the weather conditions where you live, you will probably be more reliant on your tank thermostat and heater to keep the water in the aquarium at the appropriate temperatures. If you live in a warm weather climate such as Florida or Nevada, heat loss will most likely not be an issue.

Since glass tanks are heavier than acrylic tanks, you'll want to be extra careful when choosing an appropriate aquarium stand. It's true that most of the aquarium weight will come from the water itself. But, when determining if the flooring supports are strong enough to safely hold your fish tank, you have to include all weight variables - the weight of the tank, the water, and the stand.

In years past it was hard to get custom shaped glass aquariums. If you wanted a unique shape, you were pretty much forced to purchase an acrylic aquarium. The reason for this is that glass tanks were made from planes of glass, which limited them to rectangular shapes. Acrylic tanks, on the other hand, were molded, letting them take the shape of the mold, however irregular it might be. Recently, however, new technologies have been introduced that lets companies produce glass aquariums with curvy and other unique shapes, rounded corners, and seamless edges. Acrylic tanks still hold the edge in the number of unique shapes that can be created but aquarium glass technology is light years away from where it was just a few years ago.


About The Author
Jim F. Johnson is webmaster and owner of http://www.aquariumtropicalfishsite.com. find more information on all glass aquariums / fish tanks at his web site.

Aquarium Aeration Basics

Aquarium Aeration Basics
by: Nathan Miller



As we all know rivers and lakes are the natural habits for fish and other marine life. Rivers and lakes have large surface area which makes maximum provision of oxygen for fish survival possible. On the other hand an aquarium is not like river or lake, it has a smaller surface area and there is limited movement of habitats.

This makes the provision of alternative means of oxygen for fish to breathe important. This artificial process of providing oxygen is called aeration. It's a simple process of re-oxygenating the water in aquarium tank.

The Aquarium Aerating System:

An aquarium aerating aystem made up of a series of materials that increases the supply of air (thereby increasing oxygen concentration) they are:

* the air pump
* t-pieces
* rubber tubing
* clamp or regulator
* diffusers or airstone

Air pumps come in different shapes and sizes but the most popular ones are tecax air pump from Taiwan together with 'dyna free, and the dragon' another popular one is super 555 from India though cheaper, but not as rugged. Occasionally available are the more expensive whisper and rens air pumps from Uk and rance respectively. Always place air pumps above the water level hooked to a non-vibrating material.

You can accomplish aeration in your aquarium tank by using the above listed aeration materials.

For small tanks all you need is to attach a simple aquarium air pump to airstone by means of a rubber air tube. The system will be blowing air into the water which causes motion in aquarium tank and thus provide the necessary oxygen your fish needs to breathe in the aquarium.

Sometimes people complain that the airpumps are too loud. A tricks to keep the air pump quiet is to insulate it's vibrations by placing the air pump on a large sponge.

I have even heard of some people who have buried the pump in cat litter with a air tube running to the surface from the air inlet... but you don't have to go to that extent. A large sponge should do the trick.

About The Author

Nathan Miller

For more great aquarium related articles and resources check out http://www.aquariumspot.com.

How to Buy The Right Aquarium

How to Buy The Right Aquarium
by: Kathy Strander



Buying Your First Aquarium, What To Look For

If you are interested in buying an aquarium and keeping several varieties of fish as pets, there are several things you should know before you start looking. Some factors to keep in mind are type of fish, number of fish, and what type of decor would you like. Buying an aquarium can end up costing a great deal of money but if you shop smart you can get a nice aquarium for a good price.

If you haven't owned an aquarium before, you might think it would be best to start off small. In truth you are establishing an ecosystem, so buying a small tank and only a few fish, is actually harder than going a bit bigger. In order for your aquarium to survive, you need the correct pH balance and also some live plants. Think in terms of twenty gallons as a starting size. This will give your fish room to swim and not feel trapped in a tiny space. It will give you more to look at and enjoy as well.

Don't purchase too many fish in the beginning. Four or five is a good number. You'll be able to add more later on if you want to. Another consideration is deciding if you want fresh water fish or salt water fish. You can't have both in the same aquarium. Most of the tropicals live in salt water.

Before you randomly choose some fish, do some Internet research or talk to the pet store employees. Some fish species don't interact well and may actually eat one another for lunch.

Now that you know the tank and the fish you want, it's time to think about decorations. There are a lot of choices at the pet store, and the right ones depend only on what you like. That doesn't mean however, that you can just put anything in the water. Gravel especially must come from a pet store, since it won't have an adverse affect on your aquarium system, like beach gravel would. You don't want to upset the balance you've worked so hard to establish.

After having your fish and decided upon the aquarium you would like, next you will have to bring in the water. The chlorine in the normal tap water is harmful for the plants and the fish. This is the most important factor. You will have to treat the tap water to remove the chlorine content. Use a chlorine remover before adding the water to the aquarium.

Maintaining the correct water temperature is another important consideration for your aquarium. It needs to be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, so be sure to purchase a thermometer. If the temperature isn't just right, your fish could die.

The next thing to be considered is the food for the fish. Most fish are not fussy about the food they are given, fish flakes and pellets are both fine with the fish. Recommendation for any special food can be ascertained from the pet store.

Some people are of the opinion that just placing a few gold fish in a bowl and hoping that the fish will be fine. However it takes much more effort. Starting an aquarium and then maintaining it can be very enjoyable and satisfying.

About The Author

Kathy Strander runs a very interesting website at Rock Aquarium, visit there today for the latest Aquarium advice, and while you're there sign up for the free newsletter. Read many more interesting articles on Aquarium at: http://www.rockaquarium.com/articles

http://www.rockaquarium.com

Breeding Discus – 3 Ways to Encourage Spawning

Breeding Discus – 3 Ways to Encourage Spawning
by: Rob Clarke


So you have a mature pair of discus fish that have shown an interest in each other but there not laying any eggs.

The most important factor in discus breeding in the water quality, make sure it is soft, acidic and clean. If you have this water, your most likely stressing over why there isn’t hundreds of eggs in the tank. If you have discus ready to lay eggs there are a few ways in which you can give them a helping hand.

The first way you can tempt them to lay is to feed a rich diet of frozen bloodworms for about a week. Feed it everyday as well as their other meal. This should condition the female and get her ready to breed. Other foods that are good for breeding discus are white worm, adult brine shrimp and chopped up crab sticks or prawns. Make sure you buy frozen food as there is less chance of disease.

Another way to encourage your discus to breed is by doing a 25% water change but drop the temperature by a couple of degrees of the water going in. This imitates there natural habitat and can trigger spawning. This is a little trick I use on all my young pairs when trying to get them to spawn. Make sure all the pH and hardness is the same making only the temperature different.

The third trick in getting your discus to breed is by separating them for a couple of days before reintroducing them. To do this you can add a tank divider or move the male to another aquarium. Make sure the female gets plenty to eat when the male is away. When you reintroduce the discus just keep a close watch over the next 24 hours as males have known to be aggressive towards the female. They should start the courtship over the next couple of days and hopefully lay eggs after.

There are more ways to encourage your discus to breed as well as many more tips on breeding and caring for discus fish on my site www.discus-fish-secrets.com

About The Author

Rob owns Discus Fish Secrets website helping begginners and advanced fishkeepers with discus problems including keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more information on breeding discus

Aquarium Supplies Part 1 - My First Experience With Bettas

Aquarium Supplies Part 1 - My First Experience With Bettas
by: Jonathan Wangsa


Keeping fish as pets takes more than just feeding them and changing the water every once in a while. Sadly, many people aren't aware of that and they just buy aquarium fish because they're attractive. After a short while the fish start to get sick and die one after the other, and the newbie would lose interest in the hobby and give it up all together.

Basic knowledge of fish keeping, together with the right aquarium supplies, is crucial to the livelihood and longevity of your fish. It's important to maintain the optimum living conditions for your fish and other living things you may have in your aquarium if you are to enjoy them for a long time.

To illustrate this, I shall share with you my own experiences when I got started with this hobby for the very first time as a child. The first experience was with bettas and the second with goldfish; two different kinds of fish with different requirements.

My first pet fish were a pair of bettas (a male and a female) which my mom bought me because she knew that I liked fish and felt sorry for me because a toy fish was all I had.

We put the bettas in a small plastic jar with a floating live plant. The male was aggressive. He continuously chased after the female and attacked her until she was full of bruises. One night, running out of place to hide, the female desperately jumped out of the water onto the floor. Fortunately I was nearby and was able to save her.

My mom then suggested that we separate the fish. So we put the female in a different jar. However, I felt that the female was lonely. So one day I asked my mom if I could buy another fish. There was a beautiful green male betta that I decided to buy.

At that time I didn't know that bettas were fighting fish and that the males would fight with each other. So at first I decided to put the new male in the same container as the first male. I knew the first male was aggressive and I just wondered how he would react toward another male.

To my amazement the two males fought with each other and there was no sign that they would stop. After a while I got worried. I didn't want any of them to die so I finally separated them and put the new male together with the female, and to my pleasant surprise they got along pretty well.

However, that little jar was kind of small for a pair of fish although they got along. So, we decided to move the fish to a much larger plastic container. Later I added a couple more females so that it became sort of a betta community tank.

Being fascinated by the beauty of the male bettas, I bought a couple more and put each in individual jars. I fed them dried food and occasionally bread. However, I fed them too much. The water would become cloudy fast from fish waste and uneaten food. So, I completely changed the water every other day. I would fill up the jar with new water right from the tap.

As you might guess, the fish didn't last very long. After only a few months they started to get sick and eventually one after the other died.

Dirty water, untreated new water, fluctuating water temperatures, and trauma from being moved frequently during water changes were some of the factors that contributed to the fish’s low resistance to diseases.

Although it's acceptable to keep bettas in relatively small containers without aeration, it would be much better to put them in a tank of at least 2 gallons, and you would still need to observe certain basic things such as not feeding them too much and setting aside new water to equilibrate the temperature and remove chorine prior to water changes.

I was only about 10 years old at the time and didn't know anything about fish keeping. Neither did my mom. Also, back then there were very few books about aquarium fish and the aquarium supplies were not as sophisticated as they are today.

Today, there are plenty of good books and magazines as well as web sites about fish aquariums. So, if you're serious about taking up this hobby, you should start by reading a few of them and gain the basic knowledge before you even buy your aquarium and fish.

In the next article you will learn what happened when I tried to keep some goldfish, also with very little knowledge. In the mean time I invite you to visit my web site (see below) to learn more about aquarium fish keeping.

About The Author

Jonathan Wangsa is the webmaster of http://www.all-about-aquarium-supplies.com There you can find resources and information about aquarium supplies and other aquarium related topics. Whether you're an expert or a newbie, you can also share your own experiences. Get a Free Special Report when you sign up for a Free Monthly Newsletter.